Squash Talking

Winter Squash
Intimidated by winter squash? Once you become intimate with these cucubitae, there will be no stopping your kitchen antics. Baked, boiled, steamed, roasted or grilled, each variety, although similar, will serve up different tastes and textures. No more walking past these beauties at the market with a quick, fearful step. It’s time to divide and conquer!

The most versatile winter squash is the Butternut. Dense, rich and creamy, this one has it all. Great for salads, soups, stews, curries, tortelli, ravioli, lasagna, risotto, gratins, quick bread, scones, cookies, cheesecake, steamed puddings, ice cream, pickles, chutney, jam and fruit butter, waffles, pancakes and creme brulee.
Let’s start with the simplest of soups.

Roasted Butternut Squash Soup
You don’t even have to roast the squash, it can just be simmered in the broth, but the roasting gives a lovely depth of flavor. Provided is the base for the soup and then additions that can be chosen by personal taste or by what’s available in your kitchen. An extremely helpful kitchen tool is a good quality immersion blender. If you are without, a food processor or regular blender will do the trick. Be careful with the blender, though (and I speak from experience!). If blending hot, liquidy foods, remove the vent in the top, cover with a towel and hold tight.

Soup Base:
3 lb. butternut squash
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
3 tablespoons butter or olive oil
1 onion, chopped
5 cups vegetable broth or water
Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375F. Cut the stem off of the squash and then cut in half lengthwise. Place cut sides up in a baking dish and coat with vegetable oil. Bake for 45-60 minutes until easily pierced with a fork. Remove from oven and allow the squash to cool slightly. Scoop out the seeds and remove the flesh from the skin.

Heat the butter and sauté the onion until translucent. Add the broth and reserved squash to the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, season with salt and pepper and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and puree until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Add more salt if needed to balance the natural sweetness of the squash. Serve hot.

There’s the base. Now it’s up to you to spice it up.
Add an apple or a pear with grated ginger
Or add other vegetables such as parsnip, celeriac, leek, celery or potato
Or, after pureeing, stir in white beans and minced sage in brown butter
Garnish with croutons seasoned with olive oil, herbs and cheese

For the exotic:

Moroccan
Add the following after the onions have softened. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant, then proceed with the above instructions:
2 cloves garlic, minced
1” fresh ginger, grated
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Garnish with: Chopped preserved lemon, mint, parsley and cilantro.

Mexican
Add the following after the onions have softened. Stir for 1 minute until fragrant, then proceed with the above instructions:
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 jalapeno or serrano pepper, minced
1 tomato, coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano or ¼ teaspoon Greek oregano
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Garnish with: Chopped cilantro, grated cheddar cheese, avacado and Mexican crema or sour cream.

South Indian
Omit the onion, grind the spices below and sauté in the oil (substitute peanut oil, if available) until fragrant. Add the red lentils, extra broth or water, curry leaves and turmeric to the remaining base ingredients and follow the directions above. Simmer the soup for an additional 15 minutes, until the lentils are soft. Remove the curry leaves before pureeing.
1 dried red chile, deseeded
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
¼ teaspoon fenugreek seeds
½ teaspoon black mustard seed
½” piece of cinnamon stick
Pinch poppy seeds
½ cup red lentils, rinsed and drained
1 extra cup of broth or water
2 curry leaves
Pinch ground turmeric
Garnish with: Chopped cilantro

END NOTE: Any winter squash or pumpkin may be substituted for the butternut squash. It’s all about using what’s available at the market or in your pantry.

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